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This blog started as a way of keeping friends up-to-date with Zambian life but it now also helps generate money for the poor here in Chikuni. If you like what you read please click on an ad to help the people of Chikuni.

Saturday 26 February 2011

Life on a thread

I bounced along in the back of the car, the wheezing boy in my lap. Rajesh and Kebby at their best With every breath I prayed that he would be ok. With every breath I had visions of him dying right there in my arms; of trying to perform CPR while the car juddered over the rain rutted road. CPR training I might add that I had long ago learnt during my days in secondary school and I prayed to God that if it came to it, I would still remember all that I was supposed to do. I kept my left arm under his head and my hand on his chest. I had momentary panic attacks before I felt his chest rise again. My right hand held onto the open window to keep me (and therefore him) from bouncing all over the back of the car. Occasionally I could hear his shallow wheezing breath over the roar of the tyres on the road.

Just 30 minutes before finding myself in the back of the car, I had been happily making beads for Yvone. Bead craft is a new skill for me but I enjoyed it right away. We had only just started though when Yvone got the phone call from a family in the middle of the bush. The mans son had collapsed and was unable to breath. Yvone looked worried when she hung up. Ten minutes later Gian Pedro and I were in the car and driving through the dark. We turned off the ‘main road’ and were soon driving through grass that was taller than the bonnet of the car. When I say bush, I mean bush! We found the boy lying outside the family house on the cold concrete with the family milling around. I got in the back of the Yvones single cabin car and Gian handed the boy into me. Next his mother/aunt/relative climbed in and finally someone handed her a little suitcase with his stuff. Soon we were reversing out of the compound and then back through the tall grass, around the large puddles and back onto the aforementioned rutted main road.

The family live about 12 minutes drive from Chikuni and its hospital. When we splashed through the fast flowing river and up the other side I knew we were not far away. Soon we passed through the gates of the main entrance to Chikuni and the lights from the boys secondary school were casting shadows across the boys tired and frightened face. Finally we arrived in front of the hospital and Gian was taking the boy into his arms and I could finally breath again. Annoyingly, the nurses took their time to see to the boy and I could have kicked them squarely in the ass if I wasn’t so upset. When they eventually sauntered out of the office, they had forms and a blood pressure device with them. The river crossing before reaching ChikuniI’m not a doctor but the first thing I would have been doing is getting this boy on oxygen! I sat outside in the entranceway where there are a couple of benches. The cool night air was lovely and I could feel the tears coming. I didn’t stop them but I also didn’t let it get out of control. Even now, four days later I wonder why I cried? Is it the mental strain of being here? Was it the unspoken connection built during the short journey to the hospital? Was it the reliving of old memories about an asthmatic girlfriend of mine? I can’t tell you right now but I hope to find some clarity along the way…

What I wanted to illustrate here is the fragility of life I feel exists in Chikuni and I suppose remote Africa in general. Mukanzubo puppies!There are few doctors here, no ambulances and therefore little hope if you fall seriously ill. This boy could have died if it weren’t for Yvonne and her car, just like that little girl died back in January. Maybe it’s also all the HIV positive people I meet on a weekly basis. These people are usually fit and healthy yet they live with the knowledge than sooner rather than later their immune systems will go down and if the anti-retrovirals don’t work, something as simple as a common cold will kill them.

Thankfully this time the boy was ok and was discharged the following evening with a course of tablets. There’s no such thing as an inhaler here though… so it will always be cure rather than prevention.

Friday 18 February 2011

When Nature And IT Collide

(In your best Irish accent) "What’s going on like, this just doesn’t make sense"? Lillian’s computer (i.e. the HBC secretary’s computer) suddenly starting giving trouble this afternoon, just before I was due to Malaria with wingsgo to lunch. The CPU was running at 100% and my database server was failing to start. I have already had one laptop die where I had previously installed the server and although I can’t prove anything and indeed for that very reason, I am cautious about the other computers running the software. I had a quick look around, tinkered a bit but without much luck. I decided it was time to go to lunch, to err, "think about further solutions". Yeah, definitely not to stuff my fat face anyway… After thinking about further solutions (while stuffing my fat face) I decided to do some research online around 100% CPU usage and MySQL. Nothing of interest turned up other than a handy little process explorer that I am sure will continue to be useful in the future. After post lunch coffee (one has to have some luxury in one’s life), I took this utility back to the office and sat down to do battle.

Forty minutes later, the machine was still running at 100% and I was left scratching my head. The weird thing was that when I started the computer, I got a warning about the fan failing yet I could feel the fan pushing out hot air when I put my hand to it.
Having exhausted the software options I decided it was time to get my hands dirty and explore this fan error a bit more. I unplugged everything except the power and lifted the computer up and out of its little (dusty) corner. I immediately noticed the second fan and I tried the power button in front again. Sure enough, the second fan jerked and then stopped. BINGO! So I totally disconnected the computer and brought it to another table, unhooked a side panel and gasped at the layer of dust inside. Zambian dust gets into everything here and everyone covers their computers and other electronics when not in use. Anyway, I set to work dusting with a paintbrush. I then took off the broken fan to give that a good dust. What I found next was definitely a first…

You first need to understand that we have a plethora of geckos in Chikuni. They are harmless and in fact eat mosquitoes, which is a very good thing. They have been breeding in the office for a while now and I often get jerked out of my developer trance by the sound of sweet love in amongst a pile of papers or the empty printer toner cartridge box on top of the cupboard. Or you see them slip-slide over the smooth, well-polished and shiny surface of the concrete floor. Anyway, I digress. What did I find inside the fan? Oh yes, the chopped off tail of a gecko, 5 cm (2 inches) in length. God only knows how it managed to reverse itself into the fan from the outside when the fan is approximately 20cm off the ground. I laughed out loud when I saw it and took it to Lillian to show it off. The now infamous tailThis of course resulted in her shrieking and running off in horror, a most delightful reaction if I do say so myself. I was tempted to keep the specimen as a trophy but decided a picture was less likely to rot. Now though, I’m keeping an eye out for the silly bugger with no tail. Preferably so that I can pick it up and chase Lillian with it… bwahahahaha

Til next time, your IT expert in the middle of nowhere

Monday 7 February 2011

Bastard Flies – Sorry about the language

House on the side of the lakeBack when I arrived, I used to think it was quite amusing to have a couple of flies sitting happily on my shoulder(s) getting a free lift towards Chikuni or Charles Lwuanga. With the advent of the rains though, the little bastards (LBs) have spawned and multiplied. They are no longer content with sitting there quietly, oh no! Now, they spend their time trying to sit on my head, buzzing millimetres from my ears or flying straight into my face. And as you might be able to let, I'm getting tired of swiping at them and muttering “little bastards” to myself.

Nothing is safe. By the time I reach Chikuni in the mornings, after just 15 minutes walk, there are maybe 50 of them sitting on my backpack, turning it into a mottled black and grey glorified bus. Now you might think this is because I don’t wash and it’s just me they like so much. But I can assure you I do wash and indeed, it’s not just me. In fact, as you walk along and meet someone going the opposite direction, you get buzzed by their flies (and vice versa I’m sure). There is a cultural exchange and some hop from one human bus to the other. Outside the church on Sunday morning is ridiculous. You have to run the gauntlet through a moving cloud of flies that depart from their hosts as they enter the church. Then you spend half the mass swiping them from your hair, face, arms and legs. Of course swatting at them is practically pointless because even if you catch one, there are another 5 to take over.

I remember a couple of months ago watching Me & some of the HBC crew the LBs swarm over a little babies face when I was out with Home Based Care in one of the villages. The feckers were totally relentless, chasing after the salt and snot from the little girls eyes and nose after she had cried because her mum had to put her down to have her blood pressure taken. No matter how much the mother swatted at them, there were more to take their place. Years ago, growing up as a child, I used to see pictures of African children dying of hunger and looking at the flies just walking all over their faces. I could never figure out how they could stand it but I’ve come to realise that after a while, you just give up and only occasionally, when they really start to take the piss, do you go for the LBs. I’m tired of it after only two months, I can only imagine what it must be like after years of torment by these unruly pests. And they just love wounds! Cuts or sores are like chocolate to them. After all, they are looking for meat in order to lay their eggs and start another cycle.

Somebody pass me the fly-swatter! Or a blow-torch...

Until next time, an irritated David

Tuesday 1 February 2011

The problem of mud

It’s been raining now for almost 10 weeks on and off. You may remember me describing the puddles in the road. Well those puddles have turned into lakes. The lakes have in turn flooded and the excess has run downhill creating streams. The problem is that downhill here means following the road. Have you guessed where I’m going with this yet? From now on, until the rains finish in April, we are and will continue to drive through (often) quite large streams of brown water. All this rain is very good for crops. It’s not so good for traction!

Smoke starts to rise from the spinning tyres. The land cruisers 4 wheel drive is no match for the water logged ground. Preparing to PUSH! I watch the 60cm (2”) tyres try to grip the reddish brown soil and instead just generate smoke. I have never seen tyres smoke like that before! This is not the first time today I have been out, up to my ankles in mud, wondering just how exactly we are going to get out of this situation. I am out with HBC, trying to get to one of the remotest villages in the Parish, a place called Kiyola. We are already 3 hours late because, as I mentioned, this isn’t the first time today we have found ourselves in this situation.

So how does one increase the traction of a 1.5 tonne Land Cruiser? You find tree branches! You then place these under the tyres and stand on them, hoping they don’t rip out from under your feet. Alternatively, you push with all your strength, rocking the beast back and fourth hoping you don’t end up face first in the mess that the car is about to leave behind. This is no time to reinact a scene from “Carry on camping”! When the car does eventually find some grip, it lurches forward and a cheer goes up. This is followed by a trek to the idling car, which has been parked on steadier ground. It certainly makes for an interesting day.

It’s an odd thing to feel the car slow down while the engine revs higher and higher as the tyres quickly lose traction and turn into inefficient shovels, slowly digging the car deeper and deeper into the mud. The car stop, reverse is engaged and the car lurches backwards (if you’re lucky). Reverse back 20 meters, stop, engage first and HIT IT, hoping to build up enough momentum to carry you through the worst of the slick. Another fun feeling is when the car decides to move to one side all of it’s own accord, just because the road is at an angle. Whoops, there goes the back tyres. The car starts to go sideways and Patrick, the driver desperately tries to keep the whole thing straight as gravity and physics laugh in his face.

Sadly, in the end we had to give up. A group before us tried to reach one of the Chona people that either watched or helped as we attempted to escape the mudvillages before Kiyola but had to turn around. We met them on the road and they told us it was impassable. There is a type of mud here, black in colour, which is like ice when it’s wet. There is a patch of this mud on the road to Kiyola, at a steep decent (to add insult to injury) and although there is a track around it through the bush, both were impossible. Had we gone down it, we would not have been able to climb back up later. So the visit was abandoned, probably until April unless the situation improves. Sometimes, it’s just not possible to provide a local service…

Until next time,
A mucky puppy